Southern Tier Section 4

via bicycle from Phoenix, AZ to El Paso, TX

March 31 - April 9, 2008

449 miles with 14,713 feet of elevation gain and 15,963 feet of elevation loss

Date	Location	Miles
Section 4
March 31	Brackettville, TX	42
April 1	Camp Wood, TX	49
April 2	Vanderpool, TX	39
April 3	Kerrville, TX	51
April 4	Kerrville, TX - rest day	0
April 5	Blanco, TX	64
April 6	Bastrop, TX	95
April 7	La Grange, TX	41
April 8	Navasota, TX	69
April 9	Navasota, TX - rest day	0

Remember, the first map is the Adventure Cycling map and shows our actual route; and for the 2nd map I used the AAA online mapping service to print a map that shows their suggested highway route to each night's stop--of course these highways are not always the best highways for bicycle riders and are NOT indicative of our route, but it gives you another view of the area we are traveling.

Section 4

Day 26 Day 27 Day 28 Day 29 Day 30 Day 31 Day 32 Day 33 Day 34 Day 35

Day 26 - March 31, 2008

Armistad to Brackettville, TX - 42 miles

info (back to beginning of section 4) weather

After leaving Armistad we rode 9 miles to Del Rio and then rode through part of Del Rio. We went by a WalMart and there was a bike shop we could visit by going just a few blocks off route. However, I did neither. Today's route was fairly flat with only a 625 feet climb and a 628 feet descent. Both pretty insignificant compared to what we have been riding. At the end of the day we 18 of the 38 rooms in the Fort Clark Springs Motel which was formerly a barracks. FORT CLARK SPRINGS is a former Cavalry Post, which has been turned into a private resort, owned by its members. Berms have been added to the old parade ground, which is now a golf course, but the main attraction continues to be the spacious spring-fed pool. (Las Moras Springs). It was an interesting place. The motel is over 150 years old as the fort was built in 1852, but it was remodeled 3 years ago. My room was very nice, but some women had rooms on the 2nd floor. It was very hot today, and we ate the dinner that Linda cooked in the Service Club which was nice because we had regular tables and chairs and were inside out of the sun.

Del Rio to Brackettville map

elevation chart showing our almost equal climb and descent today

entrance to Fort Clark

Fort Clark is on the National Register of Historic Places

Fort Clark Sesquicentennial

cavalry empty saddle statue

I stayed in room 7 of the Patton Pavilion

Day 27 - April 1, 2008

Brackettville to Camp Wood, TX - 49 miles

info (back to beginning of section 4) weather

Today was not as challenging as it looks on the elevation chart. The first big elevation change was fairly gradual over a long time, and in the second section several of the hills were nice rollers. If you came down a hill fast enough you could get up most and sometimes all of the next hill. We are now resigned to the fact that ALL the roads in Texas are chip and seal. Some are a little better than others, but most are VERY rough--we call it "shake and bake" because of the bad road and the hot temperature--and it was hot this afternoon after a cool misty morning.

Camp Wood was established as a United States military outpost on May 20, 1857, when it was occupied by Lt. E. D. Philips and a company of the First Infantry assigned to protect the San Antonio-El Paso route and the Rio Grande valley from Indian raids. The camp was located near the ruins of San Lorenzo de la Santa Cruz Mission; its water was supplied by the same spring that had earlier served the mission and that later provided water for the town of Camp Wood.

Brackettville to Camp Wood map

elevation chart showing the 1,133 feet we gained today

we are constantly warned that water might cover the road & often a flood gauge is present

Trail's End Ranch

West Prong of the Neuces River

mesquite tree

one of the beautiful views today

the Neuces River

a small country Episcopal Church

Linda trying to light Genie's cake outside in the wind

Genie blowing out her cake after it was lit inside

Day 28 - April 2 2008

Camp Wood to Vanderpool, TX - 39 miles

info (back to beginning of section 4) weather

Today was our first day in the "hills of Texas," and we had some tough climbs. But the hardest part of today was a 6 miles construction zone that we rode through. Right outside of Leakey they had the road completely torn up and the sign said to wait for a pilot car to lead you through, but the sag had told us they knew there was bicyclists coming through and we didn't have to wait as we couldn't keep up with the pilot car anyway.

I rode with Katie all day. Our first major climb started at about the 8 mile mark and consisted of 8-10% grades for 9/10s of a mile. I couldn't ride at that intense a level for that long and had to walk after 6/10s of a mile. Then we had a very short break during which we met the sag and had some refreshments then we had another 8-10% grade, but thankfully it was much shorter. Then we had some ups and downs including some rollers and another intense but shorter climb right after the construction zone about mile 28. Finally about mile 33 we had our last intense climb, and by then it was misting rain which ruined the views. Along the way we had 3 LONG descents! It was cool today--nice short sleeve jersey weather!

We are staying at Foxfire Cabins outside of Vanderpool tonight. I am in the main cabin with Michelle, Linda, Dawn, and Ellen. Linda is cooking in the kitchen and it smells so good! We have a free washer and dryer so I washed a load of clothes.

Camp Wood to Vanderpool map

elevation chart showing the 2,976 feet we climbed

"Rust in Peace" display

view of the road construction - later it got worse

beautiful view today

Gemsbok Springs entrance

Heart of Texas Wildlife Trail

Day 29 - April 3, 2008

Vanderpool to Kerrville, TX - 51 miles

info (back to beginning of section 4) weather

With all the hills we have been climbing my right knee has been hurting for several days and today for the first time my left knee hurt; therefore, I decided I didn't want to stress it today by riding the steep 1.3 mile hill early in the ride and told the sag driver, Michelle, that I would ride with her to the first sag stop which was at the TOP of the 1.3 mile hill. When I saw the hill from the Subaru I was glad I made the decision I did, and I found out later that the hill reached a 13% grade. Thus, I started riding at the 9 mile mark. There were still several hills, but they weren't bad and some were even rollers, but my right knee was hurting so when I saw the van at the pie shop in Medina I decided to call it quits for the day.

Five people had ridden in the van from the Foxfire Cabins and seven more got in at Medina so the van was full with 14 people and bikes counting Michelle and Linda. We stopped at the bike shop on on the way in to the Y.O. Ranch Resort Hotel and six of us left our bikes there for some work to be done. I asked them to retie my seat to tighten it up as I think that might be why I'm leaning to the side. So I have nothing for transportation except my feet tomorrow and I'm not sure what I'll do. Maybe just vegetate!

PS There was one more BIG hill today and those who rode it said it was as bad as the first one.

Vanderpool to Kerrville map

elevation chart showing the 2,687 feet we climbed (almost the same as yesterday)

beautiful view today

my comfortable bed for the next 2 nights

Day 30 - April 4, 2008

Kerrville, TX - rest day & Habitat Bike.Home

info (back to beginning of section 4) weather

Today is a rest day, and I'm not doing anything so I decided to put some info about the Habitat 500 Bike.Home on my page.

Habitat 500 allows each rider to choose up to three affiliates to receive their funds raised, and each rider is responsible for deciding what percentage of their funds raised goes to each affiliate (a minimum of 10 percent must go to each affiliate). As of now I have designated 100% of the money I raise to go to the Wabash Valley affiliate; however, if enough bicycle riders donate money to equal at least 10% of what I raise, I will designate that their donations go to this year’s Bike.Home and anyone may specify that their donation go to the Bike.Home.

Starting in 2006 the Habitat 500 started designating a Bike.Home each year. On one day during the ride the riders have an opportunity to work on the Bike.Home, ride a scenic loop in the area, or simply take a “breather’ to rest their legs. The home is designed by several past riders, is located near bike trails, and bikes are donated to each member of the family to help share the Habitat 500 riders’ love and passion for cycling. The family is also given helmets, a bike pump, some simple tools, and a storage shed for the bikes.

The 2007 Bike.Home was both partially built and sponsored by riders. It was built in the Leaf River area and was located near bike trails in Perham. Bikes were donated to each of the four children and the mother. Some pictures of the work on this home and two of the happy children are shown below. The two older brothers were picking sugar beets and couldn’t be present on the big day.

The 2008 Bike.Home. is being built in Onamia, and once again all riders will have the opportunity to work on the home during the week of the Habitat 500. On Thursday, July 17th, riders can choose to either 1) ride the scenic lake country 70 mile loop in and out of Onamia, 2) volunteer to help build the bike.home, OR 3) take a “breather” and rest their legs.

2007 Bike.Home family

Habitat 500 riders working on the Bike.Home site

the bikes being presented

he youngest child riding her bike - her helmet didn't fit so she doesn't have it on

the youngest boy and his bike

all of the Habitat 500 riders and volunteers & the Bike.Home family

the Bike.Home when its construction was further along

Day 31 - April 5, 2008

Kerrville to Blanco, TX - 64 miles

info (back to beginning of section 4) weather

Wow - we had 2 pages on our route sheet for today. We have gotten use to using only one or two highways all day and that has now changed--we have lots of turns we have to watch for today and lots of small towns to go through which is also different--we are no longer out in the middle of no where. We were on little country roads and the views were beautiful. At mile 49 we turned onto Old Blanco Road and it was VERY rough. After 5.5 miles we entered Blanco County, and the road got a little better. In Texas the roads always change at the county line--sometimes they get worse and sometimes better, sometimes the quality remains about the same but the color will always change.

We stayed in two different inns in Blanco--about half of us stayed in the Blanco County Inn and about half in the Swiss Lodge. They were only .2 of a mile apart. I stayed in Blanco County Inn and Michelle and Linda stayed in the Swiss Lodge which meant that the van and trailer were there and we had dinner there, but it was just a short walk.

Kerrville to Blanco map

elevation chart showing the 2,304 feet we will climb even though we are supposedly out of the "hill country"

Guadalupe River

unknown stream that crossed under the road

turkey vultures

Blanco River

Easter crosses on the lawn of a church

this goat thinks the grass is greener on the other side of the fence

Cheryl is feeding the goats part of her peanut butter sandwich

they love it and so does she

Day 32 - April 6, 2008

Blanco to Bastrop, TX - 95 miles

info (back to beginning of section 4) weather

I had stomach problems Saturday night and didn't get any sleep. My stomach was rolling and gurgling and eventually I had diarrhea, and took Immodium for it with great success. But at 4 am I started having heartburn and had no medicine for this so I waited until 6 o'clock then asked Katie and Jane if they had any medicine for heartburn. Katie gave me a Zantac, and it calmed my stomach down, but I couldn't eat much breakfast. I also had a flat tire and had tried to change it, but couldn't get the wire that caused the flat out of my tire and also found two holes caused by the poor roads we have had that went clear through the tire. So at 6 am I called Michelle and asked her to get my spare tire out of the box that I had my spare wheel in inside the trailer. (Half of us were at one motel and the van, trailer, and everyone else was at a different motel.) I also explained I had had problems during the night and needed help with the tire and would not be riding at the beginning until I found out how I felt.

Michelle put my spare tire on the back wheel, and I rode in the van the first 25 miles. Then I rode my bike to the next sag stop at the 40 mile mark. Several people were sagging at that point because of the traffic and my stomach was hurting again so I decided to sag a while too. I thought my stomach was just hurting because I was hungry, but I wasn't sure. I ate a banana and some cheese and crackers. Then the van stopped at a Dairy Queen because one of the riders had fallen down there and needed some help with her bike. She has a black eye and also hit her chin. Later she got stung by an unknown bug and her thigh swelled up and turned black and blue--it wasn't a good day for her. Three of us--Katie, Dawn, and myself got out at the 60 mile sag and started riding again. We all finished OK, but there were quite a few hills.

I only rode 45.6 miles, but I still got in late, because I didn't get started until 10:30 because of the flat tire and then waited to be boosted up by the van. It was nice to be back in a good quality chain motel (The Comfort Inn) and Walgreen's and Wal-Mart were both real close. I walked to both before dinner and went to bed as soon as possible after dinner to try and catch up on my sleep.

Tomorrow is a new day and a short one and I'm feeling good!!!!!!!!!!

Blanco to Bastrop map

here we have only 1,501 feet to climb with no long climbs

court house in Lockhart

longhorns

Texas bluebonnets - the state flower

these pretty pink phlox were also beside the highway in profusion

a good view of some of the hills

Day 33 - April 7, 2008

Bastrop to La Grange, TX - 41 miles

info (back to beginning of section 4) weather

Today was a good day--good temperature, short mileage, light winds, I felt good, and we rode through two state parks for about12 miles. True my bottom two gears were slipping badly and I couldn't use them so I walked up several of the steep hills in the park, but some were so steep I might have had to walk up part of them even if my gears had been working. Since I was walking my GPS didn't record the grades, but Ann reported that the steepest grade was 17%. Only one of the hills after the parks was a problem with my sick gears.

First we entered Bastrop State Park and then we entered Buescher State Park. For the entire 12 miles we were riding through a forest of trees. The loblolly pine woodland is isolated from the main body of East Texas Pines by approximately 100 miles of rolling, post oak woodlands. This pine-oak woodland covers approximately seventy square miles and is part of the most westerly stand of loblolly pines in the state. A quiet woodland and rugged hills make this park one of the most beautiful in Texas. The road was narrow and there was no center line so you had to be careful and stay close to the edge as there were a lot of curves and the cars might not see you in time, but there was practically no cars. When we exited the parks and came out on Route 153 it was a shock to see the wide open fields after seeing nothing but trees for so long. We followed 153 for about 18 miles, and it didn't have much traffic either. Then we turned onto US 77 and traffic picked up, but we had a shoulder and a rumble strip separated us from the highway.

Another nice motel tonight--a Best Western--and as soon as I got in Michelle took my bike and said she would give the gears some tender, loving care.

Bastrop to La Grange map

1,558 feet to climb and it looks like some might be significant

entrance to Bastrop State Park

sign explaining lost pines of Texas

view of the lake in the park

two views of the trees along the road

this is the point on the road where the county changed

beautiful Indian Paintbrush along the road

bales of hay in the field

Day 34 - April 8, 2008

La Grange to Navasota, TX - 69 miles

info (back to beginning of section 4) weather

Today was a beautiful ride! We went through a lot of pretty small towns and there were carpets of flowers beside the road and in the fields. There was not much traffic on any of the roads which was good as there were usually only two lanes and several had no shoulder. There were hills constantly, but they were short and not too steep. I didn't have any problem with any of them and never did use my two lowest gears, but by the end of the day I was tired of hills. We have been on the Texas Independence Trail for several days, and today we rode right past the Washington on the Brazos State Park. This Historic Site is where the Texas Declaration of Independence was signed on March 2, 1836. It is the birthplace of Texas. The park is only 10 miles from where we are staying in Navasota and tomorrow on my rest day I am going to return to the park and see the exhibits.

When I got in this evening the husband of one of the riders had drinks and snacks for everyone. It was a very nice party. And the son of one of the other riders bought chocolate and vanilla fudge for our last sag stop and for dessert after dinner--it was delicious. Thanks Chuck and Mark!

It was VERY hot today, and I got a burn on my left arm. This is the first burn I have had on the trip. I put some Aloe Vera Cooling Gel on both arms, and I will wear my long sleeve SPF top tomorrow to protect my arms. I will probably wash it out and wear it again the next day to give my arms a long rest.

La Grange to Navasota map

1,929 to climb - I hope a lot of these are rollers (they weren't)

Texas Independence Trail

2 statues along the road

beautiful bluebonnets

beautiful Indian paintbrush

information about the town of Independence, TX

(one of the small towns we rode through)

Day 35 - April 9, 2008

Navasota, TX - rest day

info (back to beginning of section 4) weather

The Washington-on-the-Brazos State Park was great! I rode my bike 20.9 miles for the round trip and in the park, and it was definitely worth it. There are 3 parts to the park.

Independence Hall is revered as the one of Texas’ most significant historic places. Washington was chosen because it was centrally located and far enough inland to be safe from Mexican raids. It also had access to a river crossing for an escape route if necessary. In 1836 59 representatives of the Texas settlements met to make a formal declaration of independence from Mexico in an unfinished building provided by the city of Washington. A replica of Independence Hall marks the place where the Texas Declaration of Independence was signed and the government of the Republic of Texas was created. You can walk in the footsteps of Davy Crockett as you continue past Independence Hall and make your way down historic Ferry Street and at the end of Ferry Street, you can see the Brazos and Navasota Rivers at a scenic overlook.

The Star of the Republic Museum is administered by Blinn College and immerses you in the rich history of the Republic of Texas, a sovereign nation from 1836 to 1846. I started by watching a 20-minute video highlighting the significance of Washington-on-the-Brazos then I explored on the 1st floor the people, places, and events that shaped the character of the Texas we know today. I also browsed quickly through the Showers Brown Discovery Center which offers hands-on, entertaining activities and the 2nd floor exhibits which dealt with the social and cultural heritage of the people who came together to create the Republic of Texas.

The Barrington Living History Farm is a representation of the farm founded by Dr. Anson Jones, last President of the Republic of Texas. With Jones' daybook and accounts as their guide, the interpreters at Barrington Living History Farm conduct themselves much as did the earliest residents of the original farmstead, raising cotton, corn, cattle and hogs. Visitors take a step into the lives of Barrington’s earliest residents and can participate in daily activities to better understand what life was like over 150 years ago.

Anson Jones called Barrington home from 1845 until his death in 1858. Jones arrived in Texas in 1833, settling first in Brazoria where he practiced medicine and became involved in politics. He actively served the Republic of Texas as a congressman, Minister to the United States, Senator, and Secretary of State. In 1844, at the height of his political career, Dr. Jones became president of the Republic. “Barrington” is named after his birthplace, Great Barrington Massachusetts. The Farm’s occupants included Jones, his wife Mary, their four children, his sister, Mary’s half-siblings, and six slaves.

The Anson Jones Home is an original structure built in 1844, near Washington. It was moved to Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historical Site as part of the Texas Centennial Celebration in 1936.

The outbuildings were recreated based on typical Texas architecture of the mid nineteenth century, and information found in Dr. Jones’ diaries and account books. The reconstructed farmstead opened as Barrington Living History Farm in March of 2000. It represents the lifestyle of the Jones family and the slaves who lived and worked here.

Texas Timeline

Stephen F. Austin settles the first 300 Anglo families in Texas - December 1821

Santa Anna takes control of Mexico and repeals Constitution of 1824 - April 1834

The Alamo is attacked by Santa Anna - February 22/24, 1836

Texians gather at Washington-on-the-Brazos, declare their independence, and sign a declaration of independence - March 2, 1836

The Alamo falls to Santa Anna and the Mexican Army - March 6, 1836

Col. Fannin and his men are massacred at Goliad - March 27, 1836

General Sam Houston and the Texas Army defeat Santa Anna at San Jacinto - April 21, 1836

A formal ceremony officially moves authority in Texas from the last President of the Republic, Anson Jones, to the first governor of the new State of Texas, J. Pickney Hednerson. - February 10, 1846